Dog Collars Explained

The Difference between walking your dog - (or for some, the dog walking you) -  and training your dog can be explained by which collar you use, how you use it and when. I have explained the different types of dog collars on the market today, and how/what they are used for.

1. Buckle Collars These are collars that are simply fastened with a buckle. They are typically made of (a) nylon, (b) leather, and are either flat or rolled. Most buckle collars are adjustable, but do not tighten on the dog's neck once fastened. Rolled leather collars, although more expensive, tend to fit more comfortably. Adjustable nylon collars are recommended for growing pups.

 

2. Break-away Collars A special quick-release collar that will unfasten if a strong pull is placed on the collar. However, the collar will not unfasten when attached to a leash. This collar was designed after the inventor's dog choked to death because its collar got caught on something.

 

3. Choke Chains (also see Proper Use of Choke Collar) This is the common name of the metal training collar. Choke chains are still used as the primary training tool in many traditional  training methods - where the dog is corrected with a snap of the leash if it does not obey a command. This type of collar should never be left on an unattended dog and always removed when the leash is removed.

 

4. Electronic Collars Often called remote or e-collars collars by advocates, and shock collars by detractors, these devices deliver an electrical stimulus causing pain to the dog when given a correction. It is my experience, when evaluating most dogs who have been trained using shock devices, that these collars can destroy a dog's self confidence. I would never use nor do I advocate the use of shock collars as an obedience training device. A well-trained handler, obedience trainer or knowledgeable owner, would never have to resort to using one. I have trained thousands of difficult dogs without the need to use a shock collar - which is really only using pain-compliance in an attempt to train a dog quickly. The results are often disastrous.

 

5. Head Collars (see Proper Use of Gentle Leaders) Head Collars (A. Gentle Leaders, B. Halti, Promise) are also commonly used for dogs that pull. They were designed based upon halter's that are used on horses. However, unlike a horse halter, which sits down on the bridge of the nose, dog head halters sit  below the eyes. Most dogs are uncomfortable with them and rightly so - the dogs muzzle is extremely sensitive and dogs use their noses and mouths to not only communicate, eat and play, but also to defend themselves. From a psychological standpoint, any canine, being a predator, would feel extremely vulnerable having its muzzle restricted in any way.

Halters are not muzzles - the dog can still drink, eat, bark, and bite! Also, there has been some concern expressed that a lunging dog could hit the end of the lead and snap its head around, causing injury to the neck.

 

6.Harnesses Some people use harnesses in an attempt to stop their dogs from pulling when on lead. This is a very contradictory use of the device - consider that sled dogs use harnesses to pull and you can imagine why they would not be effective in stopping this behavior.

 

7. Limited Slip Collars  They are adjustable collars designed to tighten around a dog's neck, but to stop tightening before they actually constrict around the neck. They are good for dogs who tend to "slip" out of their collars.

 

8. Martingales These are similar to limited slip collars, except they don't have a buckle. They slide over the dog's head, and then a piece of plastic tubing (typically) is slid down to the desired tightness. Martingales are frequently used to show Toy dogs in conformation.

 

9. Metal Show Collar  Thin slip collars are frequently used in all but toy dogs in the conformation show ring. Show collars are usually made of braided nylon, cotton, or leather, or hex or serpentine metal chain. The metal show collars are not the same as training choke chains.

 

10. Nylon Slip Collar There are several kinds of slip collars - also referred to as chokers or choke chains. Slip collars are made of braided nylon, cotton, or leather, with "O" rings at either end. The collar loops through one of the rings, making a "P" shape. The lead is usually attached to the ring at the bottom of the "P," which allows the collar to tighten and loosen with pressure from the lead. The floating ring is called the dead ring - if a lead is attached to the dead ring, the collar will not tighten.

 

11. Prong or Pinch Collars (also see Proper Use of Prong) These are used for the same purposes as the choke collar, to "correct" the dog by using a quick snap and release of the leash followed by praise. The prong collar is actually far safer, and much gentler, than the choke training collar.

 

These collars seem like a kind of medieval torture device but are actually quite gentle when used properly. They should be used for training "NECK INSENSITIVE" dogs. (Those dogs that will strain on the leash to the point of choking and coughing) They should NEVER be use on a dog that "resists", (when on-leash the dog stops in it's tracks and refuses to move) nor should it be used on puppies during the fear impact stage. Small owners with large dogs would benefit from their use as well. The prong collar provides an even pressure around your dog’s neck and when the proper snap-and-release method of correction is used, it will ensure responsiveness from your dog. It allows the handler to apply the right amount of pressure so that over-correction (snapping too hard or too often) does not occur.

 

12. Good Dog Collar - Plastic Prong Collar from Triple Crown. Triple Crown Collar’s patented design enhances communication between you and your dog. This collar provides gentle control and offers a great looking design. It works well for dogs that constantly pull on the leash and makes obedience training a snap. The link design fits together, producing a watchband pattern that any dog would be proud to wear. This also makes it easy to remove links as needed, or use Add-A-Link to quickly lengthen the collar for a perfect fit.

Which Dog Collar?
Every day, with each new client, or at each new class I teach, dogs show up wearing a variety of collars, harnesses and head gear. The owners have done their homework by searching the internet, asking their neighbors, vets or friends, and consulted with the sales clerk at the pet store and have made their choices carefully.  The owners only want what's best for their dogs. Still the first and most often asked question is

 

"Which dog training collar is best?"

 

I want to make clear that this article is not meant to advocate the use of one collar over another. It is not the collar that makes the trainer. Rather, it is the trainer that knows how dogs think, learn and bond with humans who can therefore advise the owner which collar will work best for their dog. For any trainer to exclusively recommend a collar or training technique would in my opinion indicate their lack of understanding and experience with canines. More importantly, when I hear of trainers who forbid certain training aids and techniques be used in their classes, I have to wonder if they honestly have the dog's best interest at heart. No training equipment can take the place of a strong, mutually respectful relationship.

 

All dog collars, halters and harnesses are simply tools designed for specific purposes.  If you understand the purpose of each tool and the result you expect, the choice of a collar can be fairly easy. Unfortunately, today's "experts" on the subject have obscured these very simple facts. With the advent of "gentle", politically correct methods of dog training, highly manipulative and slanted views have been infused into this discussion. Many times the decision on which training tool to use is based more on myth and hearsay. It should be based on facts about each tool’s effectiveness in providing the desired result.

 

I have questioned many "dog trainers", veterinarians and educated owners and have supplied indisputable evidence either from studies, reports or demonstrations, (in my opinion an even more effective way of making a point) in the proper use of training collars. Their responses are almost always arguments based upon their moral views or worse, the moral views of someone else who heard it from someone else. Usually they concede that any "training collar" can be gentle and effective but that an owner must be as skilled as I am in order to use it properly. Therefore, for them to recommend or use it it is too risky. They in fact make my point for me. The effectiveness of any tool is directly related to it's proper use, including ones they themselves would endorse. This is why I do what I do. I teach owners how to use the proper tools to train their dogs.

 

Buckle Collars (Flat collar with either a metal buckle or plastic interlocking pieces)- While many dogs can be trained on a buckle collar, too often they arrive at class with one that is not fitted properly (too loose or too tight) connected to a retractable lead - a combination which is basically useless in training. Dogs become very excited around other dogs, especially young pups. Nothing is more important to that pup at that moment than playing with another dog. They will choke, gag, twist, roll over and sometimes slip out of the collar in the midst of their euphoria. This can be the beginning of a very long and frustrating period - for both owner and dog. The pressure that the excited dog exerts on the collar and neck can cause tracheal damage.

 

For the owner whose dog does not pull to the point of choking and gagging and who also responds well when learning commands, the buckle collar is fine as a training aid. However, less than 10 percent of dogs beginning obedience training can be trained on a buckle collar. All other responses require an upgrade. Once your dog is older and well trained, walking on a buckle collar will be no problem. This will usually be a more mature dog who is 2 to 3 years of age or older and who is well socialized with other dogs.

 

Body Harness - A harness is designed for sled dogs to pull. Pulling is the reaction from about 99% of all dogs placed on harnesses. So as a training aid, a harness is basically worthless, unless the training goal is to teach a dog to pull something. When I see dogs on harnesses, I often assume the owner has given up on trying to teach their dogs to walk at their side on a loose leash. While harnesses are frequently recommended by veterinarians, because they don’t do damage to the trachea, neck, or back, a harness does not allow an owner to effectively communicate and bond with a dog in a way that is mutually beneficial.

 

Some of the newer harnesses come with a front clip which, supposedly, eliminates the desire to pull by allowing the handler to control this action. For walking your dog this harness might work fine. As a training tool a harness is usually not effective, except for some very small breeds or very young dogs.  The effectiveness of the harness depends on the amount of resistance the dog exhibits.  If the owner has to constantly nag the dog saying “sit,sit,sit” or” Fido heel, Fido heel, Fido heel,” the dog is resisting the attempts to teach.  The dog is not deaf.  The technique is ineffective.

 

Head Halters - Head Halters are the latest in politically correct, morally proper tools that feed into owners desire to treat their canine companions like humans. While I too love my dogs and consider them family, I fully understand a dog's psychological view of head halters. I understand, and teach owners, that in order to include dogs into their human family they must treat them respectfully like the dog they truly are!

 

I will acknowledge that most dogs will not pull on a head halter. But, let's examine why. (And before I do this, for those of you who have used them, I ask; How easy was it to get it on your dog? Was your dogs personality the same after it was put on? How happy was your dog when you took it off?)

 

The manufacturers of these head halters claim they are "gentle" and safe. But, when they are attached to a retractable lead they can be downright dangerous. The way these devices work is to pull the dogs head towards the owner if it attempts to pull. This is uncomfortable for the dog and it will often keep the dog from pulling. However, if the dog becomes extremely excited and hits the end of the leash (as young dogs will often do) the head and neck could be snapped back at such a force as to possibly cause injury.

 

I rate head halters as a poor training tool. In my classes, without exception, those who begin the first class with them, change to another collar by the second. When they see other dogs responding, learning and enjoying themselves they quickly decide that the head halter is hampering their dogs' progression.

 

I have yet to work a dog who accepted a head halter willingly, and I have never observed a dog who appeared happy with having a halter around its muzzle. Most dogs appear depressed and subdued which does not create a positive learning experience. Dogs are uncomfortable with head halters, because their muzzles are very sensitive.  They use their noses and mouths to communicate, eat, play, and defend themselves.  Canines are predators.  Any dog feels psychologically vulnerable when its muzzle is restricted in any way.

 

Recently I read an article in a popular dog journal where the author  backed off of her previous accolades regarding the use of head halters. She carefully chose her words so as not to offend an audience that would no doubt include many head halter advocates. I found it interesting that included in the article was a one-week program designed to help owners "desensitize" their dog to the halter. To me this speaks volumes. If head halters are supposed to be "gentle" and an effective training aid, why would my dog not readily take to it? A dog would only need to be "de-sensitized" to something if they are experiencing fear or discomfort.

 

The bottom line on head halters is that as a management tool they might work fine. In other words, if what you are attempting to do is to subdue your dog's personality, you will probably get that result. Aggressive dogs have been known to respond well. However, dogs are willing partners of humans and eager to please. They enjoy respectful relationships based on clear communication and understanding. The canine resistance that I see caused by the use of head halters is not supportive of the unique bond we can achieve with our dogs. Their joy and exuberance is something we cherish, is it not?

 

Slip Collar (aka Choke Chain) - Possibly the oldest training tool available, the slip collar has been used for years and criticized for almost as long as it has been in existence. There are modern variations such as the cloth slip collar, martingale, and limited slip collar.

 

One participant in a recent forum of professional dog trainers, Chad Mackin, reports discussing the subject of training collars with an engineering friend as to what is happening at the mechanical level.  He reports:

“When a dog is on a static collar and pulls, there will be a gap at the back of the neck between the collar and the dog's flesh.  This means that all of his force is being distributed across the front of the neck.  With a chain training collar there is no such gap.  The force is distributed around the entire circumference of the dog's neck. Pressure is the measure of force over area (pounds per square inch).  Equal force over a smaller area means greater pressure.   Same force over a greater area means less pressure.  The so-called choke collar actually puts LESS pressure on the dog's trachea because the force of the dog pulling is spread out rather than being isolated directly on the front of the neck.”

 

Chad concludes by saying, “You do not do a dog a kindness by giving leash corrections on a buckle collar.  Instead, you are needlessly endangering them.” 

“If one cannot bear the thought of using a "choke" collar, then one should abandon the idea of leash corrections altogether.  But for the love of the noble and patient dog, don't increase the pressure on their trachea and call it a kindness.   It is not an act of love for the dog.  Perhaps love for an ideal, but not for the dog.  It is a sad thing when dogs are made to suffer because people of otherwise reasonable intelligence can't see beyond their ideals and insist on following a course of action that, as idealistic as it seems, has no relation with reality whatsoever.” 

 

I see this explanation as a good, fair and logical argument. To truly love the dog is to completely comprehend its motivation. To understand a dog is to thoroughly examine how it thinks and learns. To effectively train a dog is to appreciate how all of these components allow us the opportunity to communicate with our dog. Only then can a deep and meaningful bonding occur. It is at this point when one can become emotional about the truth of the dog/human connection and how it is best established.

 

The Name Says it All

I look at the names that have been assigned to dog training collars and the trend is truly mind-opening. So much in today's social structure is based upon looks as well as labels that it is no wonder the subject of dog training collars has become such and emotional, as well as commercial debate. The business of dogs has been reported to be well over 40 Billion dollars a year.

 

Suppose "gentle" head halters were called "neck twisters" or that a prong collar was called "positive results" collar. I can make such a distinction. In my professional experience, training thousands of dogs over a period of 20 or so years, I have positively trained dogs using harnesses, buckle, chain and prong collars, with no adverse physical or emotional effects. In recent years I have taken many struggling, out-of-control dogs previously trained on a head halter and within minutes had it obediently and happily sitting at my side, licking my hand. No pain compliance, and no food. Just good, old-fashioned canine psychology using time-proven, gentle and positive methods.

 

The same emotional debate linked to training aids has recently been commercially exploited with regard to training methods. Clicker Training and similar methods have been touted as "gentle" and more effective than leash and collar training, or just treat training alone. (And of course traditional methods such as leash-and-collar-training have therefore been labeled as abusive "jerk-and-release.") This has allowed for a whole new generation of dog trainers to emerge. The need for more extensive knowledge of canine communication and psychology is no longer required. A dog trainer can be in business in no time by appealing to today's softer, gentler stance on just about everything. I have seen in my 20 years in this profession dog trainers come and go - too many to even count. And rightly so.

 

The most effective dog training techniques have been, and might always be, the proper use of the leash and collar followed by praise and positive reinforcement. As the years have gone by, and more homes include dogs as pets - as opposed to working animals - the need for dog training, dog trainers and training tools and techniques followed suit. The evolution of dog training has ranged from discipline in the form of physical punishment, to leash training using the dogs natural instincts, to food training, and more recently to more human-driven methods such as time-outs.

 

But, dog trainers who fail to do their homework, to study canine behavior and psychology, and who refuse to consider that to continuously snap a leash that is attached to a buckle collar, or slip collar, on a dog that is neck insensitive can be abusive. The right collar and correct method of application will allow for less correction, quick and positive praise and thus positive response from the dog. The same thing can be said of a trainer who uses food as a bribe to train a dog to sit, heel or come when called. While some dogs are highly motivated by food, once the food is no longer present the dog will have no motivation to respond. Most trainers who require the owners to only use head halters use food training as the collar itself is not an effective obedience training tool. The dog who is not motivated by food, or who is no longer hungry after 15 minutes of class time, stops responding. The actual truth is that the dog never even started the learning process. Food training in dogs does not create clear communication and understanding. I explain more about operant and classical conditioning as it relates to dog training in my article "How Dogs Learn". READ ON

 

So getting back to the original question, “What collar should I use?”  I can only say that the choice is yours - as it should be.  I simply urge you to open your mind, determine what your needs are, look at your options and then choose the equipment that will give you the best results.  Once you have made your decision, look for a trainer that will respect your choice and who is skilled in using the tools you have chosen. Most importantly - choose a dog trainer who understands canine behavior and learning principles. Dogs are not human kids and if a trainer attempts to "anthropamorphasize" your dog's training or behavior program this will certainly be a disservice to you and your pet.

 

While the roles are not equal the relationship is mutually beneficial. Your receive unconditional love and companionship from your dog and your dog receives care, nourishment and shelter - and yes love. To me this "spiritual" connection is unparalleled. Mahatma Gandhi got it right when he said, "what is spiritual but not also political is the pie in the sky."